Few words that well describe what surfing is :

Location: Sandwich Islands(now Hawaiian Islands)

"...Within minutes, Molua had me paddling with him in the surf. I felt the same ecstasy I had known in Taheetee, gliding with little effort across the water. Molua pushed me into the path of a swell, where the energy of the wave lifted my board, with me upon it, into a downward slide. I clambered to my feet, and began the slippery descent. The clarity of the water was disarming, and I found it difficult to discern where the wave ended and the shallows in front of it began. Fortune was with me,and the prow of the board avoided sinking in before me. Propelled at great speed, I stood erect as I had seen Molua do before me. The board seemed to have a life of it's own,and only through much shifting of my weight was I able to help it continue it's course. Before I knew what had happened, I had struck the sand. The joy ,the exhilaration I felt , is impossible to describe. .... "

The Log of Lord Griff Stiles-Magnusson,
Illustrator and Archivist,
H.M.S. Resolution
Command of Captain James Cook;
January the 27th, 1778

More info about surfing history

More info about surfers who became legendary

Well, Mr. Magnusson decided to retreat from expedition-bound service to keep surfing and spend his last days there, Mr. Cook, instead,was cooked by local Hawaiians one year later. Anyway, after centuries every surfer still feels the same emotions.

In this site you will find all you need for a good surfing (or bodyboarding) session in Europe (in Italy, in Spain,in France and in U.K.). So build up your arms and back, find a good european break, look at the meteo for a big low, buy the right equipment and then go surfing,it looks easy, doesn't it?

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