Watch out for swimmers !!
Cool !! |

Paddle for the wave |

The surfer feels the wave pick up the board, takes his hands on the board ready
to push up and arches his back to keep the nose from pearling
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Slide your legs up, so that your leading leg is beneath your chin
and your rear foot about shoulders width behind. Your front foot should be
at slight angle to the central stringer while the rear one is
between 45°-90° to it
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From this crouched position put out your arms |

Hold out your arms and keep your knees bent for balance |

Shifting your weight between your front and back foot you will slow the board down
or speed it up. Go in a straight line toward the beach |
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That's it, now it's up to you !! |